Stockholm is also pretty

Stockholm was the last place we visited on our Scandinavian journey. It was a good almost-three-week trip. It spanned the summer solstice, so there was plenty of sunlight. Just look at the color of the sky in these photos – it’s amazing.

a city building
There’s a lot of water in Stockholm, as you’d imagine. Which means bridges everywhere.

 

b government and church
This is, I think, the parliament building. The steeple on the church in the background is great – an open steel structure. I like that as a way to make the top of a building interesting. I’m keeping it in mind for the palace I will someday build.

 

c german church
This is where the minister stands to deliver the sermon in the German church. It’s not too shabby. (Stockholm was a big trading town back in the day – and each culture had its own church – there’s at least a German Church and a Finnish Church in addition to the Stockholm Cathedral.)

 

d gamla stan street
When you build on an island with no cars, you build narrow streets and tall buildings. (This is on Gamla Stan, which is the original island of Stockholm. It’s mostly given over to tourists now.)

 

e gamla stan street
This is an actual, named street on Gamla Stan.

 

f a boy and his horse
A random statue of a boy and his horse. My palace is also going to have a large garden with lots of random statues.

 

g dragon slaying
Dragon slaying!

 

h dragon slaying
More dragon slaying! It’s the same statue, just different size and colors (obviously). This one is in the Stockholm Medieval Museum – which is both free and super-fascinating.

 

i smallest statue
The smallest statue in Stockholm. Those are normal sized coins. Someone knits hats for it; we were told that it changes about once a week. It’s in the park next to the Finnish church.

 

j artemis or athena
I am 90% sure this is a statue of Artemis. But maybe it’s Athena? There’s a small two-room museum off the Royal Palace full of ancient Roman sculpture. (My ancient-loving heart was warmed.)

 

k frederick
One of the King Friderics of Sweden. Sweden had more money than Denmark, and thus Stockholm in general is fancier than Copenhagen was. I think this is the Frederick that turned Sweden into that fancier place, with building initiatives and the like.

 

l fire
This is the little symbol over the door that you put up once you paid your dues to the firemen. They’d only put out fires at the houses of the people with the symbol. You’d be surprised at how few there were.

 

m doors
My royal palace is totally going to have a door that looks like this.

 

n town hall
Stockholm City Hall. This is where they give out the Nobel prizes every year.

 

o statue
An adorable little lion statue outside City Hall. It could be a nice addition to my palace gardens.

 

p park
Woo-hoo! This is the oldest park in Stockholm, and, in fact, a number of workers brought their lunches here to escape the dreary offices they work in. The buildings across the canal are hotels and department stores. Pretty fancy for a department store. Maybe I should build one of those instead of a palace….

I’m making plans for my own palace now…

We initially decided to tour the Swedish Royal Palace because it was hot outside and the stone buildings were nice and cool. But the palace? is also very elegant.

grand banquet hall
There was a royal wedding in mid-June (this was taken on maybe 1 July?). This hall was where they had the wedding dinner. It was HUGE.

 

hall of mirrors
If this room reminds you of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, well, it’s supposed to. They borrowed the design from the French.

 

chest
A trunk from somewhere in the palace. The detail is amazing.

 

detail
I’ve forgotten exactly where this detail was – over a door? Carved on a wall? Think about living somewhere with this kind of detail – I’d simultaneously love being surrounded by the beauty and be terrified I was going to somehow break it all.

 

e sitting room 2
A sitting room.

 

f sitting room
Another sitting room, but in this one I can imagine Lizzie Bennett and Caroline Bingley taking a turn around the room while Darcy covertly watches them, pretending to write letters.

 

g statue
When I own my palace, I’m going to put artwork in the front hall for everyone to admire.

 

staircase
And this will be the staircase they have to walk up to get to the living area.

 

table
This is an incredibly whimsical table layout. If you think it’s a flower, it’s porcelain. All of it. It’s both lovely and funny. And it was all for sale, too.

 

throne
Your throne, milady.

 

The palace turned out to be a surprisingly fun detour. I’d recommend it if you’re ever in Stockholm.

Norway is pretty

These are the last of my photos of Norway. We took a cruise to see all the fjords; it is a lovely, lovely place. I recommend going.

fjord boat
I’ve forgotten which particular fjord this one is. The huge cruise ship is on the left.

 

fjord camping
This is Geiranger. There’s a big campground there and it was full. I can totally see why. There’s also a small town with all the amenities, including many cafes and a chocolatier. It’s civilized camping.

 

fjord views
A view down the fjord from a mountaintop.

 

fjord waterfall
One of the bigger waterfalls.

 

fjord waterfalls
So, so many waterfalls.

 

geiranger grass roof
We walked over to town from the dock. They’ve left up this old cottage with a robust sod/grass roof. The Scandinavians are big on the garden roofs; one of our tour guides pointed out that this is at least partially explained by the fact that the old houses all had sod roofs. It was the best way to keep the rain out.

 

geiranger pews
This was inside a church in Olden. Each pew was closed off by a door and had these decorations on the end. I thought they were unique.

 

molde garden
A park in Molde. It was a lovely place to sit and rest.

 

mountain stream
A mountain stream, possibly back in Geiranger.

 

nordfjord bench
This was in a town called Norddal. There’s a row of boathouses along the fjord, across the street from the town. People still use them (and the boats) to get around. I liked the blue of the bench against the dark wood. Pretty.

 

nordfjord boat
The boathouses at Norddal. I like boat in between the boat houses.

 

nordfjord church
The (well-maintained) church in Norddal. It’s octagonal.

 

stavanger boat
The cathedral tower in Stavanger. Those are hotels along the fjord for all the tourists.

 

troll eggs
There’s a lot of animal husbandry on the western edge of Norway; it’s not flat enough for a lot of farming. But goats? Goats do great. Goats also have to eat during the long snowy winters. During the summer, they let the grass grow. Then they mow and harvest the clippings, saving them in these giant white bags. You see them everywhere in the Norwegian countryside; they’re called troll eggs.

That is it for the Norway photos. Next (and last) is Stockholm.

Other Norwegian Cities

The cruise stopped at other ports too – we explored a number of towns. I’ve narrowed the photos down to a couple of the larger cities: Stavanger and Molde. Molde was the furthest north we went, and we were there only a day or two after the summer solstice. The sun rose at 3:30am and set at 11:30pm. How did we sleep? Blackout curtains.

old stavanger
This is the view of old Stavanger from the port (I took this from the balcony of our room on the ship). There are strict regulations about the buildings in this section of town, obviously. Including: only very small signs for stores are allowed. So there’s little in the way of tourist schlock available for sale. It was lovely.

 

old stavanger anchor
This giant anchor was outside of the maritime museum. It’s HUGE.

 

old stavanger flowers
Have I mentioned that there were flowers everywhere in Norway? People definitely take advantage of summer to make everything prettier.

 

old stavanger stairway
This was a little alleyway in Stavanger’s old town. I like the flowers and the lamppost.

 

cathedral
Stavanger’s cathedral. It was closed to repair the organ – and had been for more than a year – and was going to be re-opened the week after we were there. Le sigh.

 

bright street
Stavanger had a regular shopping district, too. This was clearly the shopping center for the town, full of locals and tourists alike. This one street, though, is the brightly colored hipster center for Stavanger.

 

bright street - hipster
See? Hipster center. Look at the bunting and the deer and the colors. You could buy everything on Etsy, I’m sure of it.

 

bright street - manic pixie dream troll
There’s even a manic pixie dream troll. Where else but Norway would you find one?

 

bright street - mural
This mural – women supporting each other and looking cute – tickles me.

 

brigth street - bookstore
I couldn’t *not* get a picture of the local bookstore, could I?

 

statue
The rest of Stavanger’s shopping district looked more like this: cobblestone streets, white buildings, colorful windows. This is a statue of an old seaman or viking. He has personality.

 

molde - statue
Then it was on to Molde. They love flowers so much, they’ve got their own rose variety. She’s celebrating that.

 

molde - torget
The town center of Molde – the torget. Molde is fairly small and very modern. The King of Norway hid here for a bit during WWII, so the Nazis destroyed the city. It’s all been rebuilt.

 

We also visited Alesund, which has lovely art nouveau buildings. Wilhem II used to vacation there with his family; there was a fire in the early 1900s that burned down about half the town. So Wilhelm foot the bill for rebuilding it, hiring the best European architects. The result is a fabulous art nouveau city. But I was sick during that port visit, so I didn’t get to see it. My husband and daughter tell me it was very pretty.

Baby goats are cute

We took a cruise through the Norwegian fjords while in Scandinavia. (In fact, the cruise was the reason for the trip.) We did two shore excursions that involved animals: we went to a goat farm and to the Norwegian Fjord Horse Centre. The center works to preserve the breed, which is the only one native to Scandinavia. Mountainous western Norway is particularly suited to goat farming, since the goats like the mountains – there’s not enough room for cows.

baby goat
My husband feeding a baby goat. Baby goats are cute.

 

foal
Foals – baby horses – are also cute. And tiny.

 

riding on the horses
This is one of the handlers riding two horses at once. It was impressive.

 

stallion
An award-winning stallion. He’s a very good example of his breed, apparently.

A day in Bergen, Norway

Bergen is a lovely town of about 200,000 people on the coast of Norway. It’s the second biggest city (after Oslo), and we had a great time exploring it.

Funicular

funicular
There’s a funicular that takes you to the top of the surrounding hills. There are tons of hiking trails across these hills – we saw at least two big groups of people with packs on getting ready for a multi-day hike. There’s also a restaurant and gift shop at the top. So you can go up for an hour or two as well.

 

troll
There’s also a troll garden at the top of the funicular, hidden in the forest. This hipster troll is the one who greets you at the entrance. (You can see other trolls in the background.)

 

troll
Sometimes, the trolls are hiding. (This one feels very Wallace & Gromit-y to me. I think it’s the hands.)


Hanseatic League
Remember your history lessons, where you learned that the Black Plague killed 1/3 of the European population? Well, the disease had a 50% fatality rate in Norway and 80% in Bergen. That’s right, after the Black Plague came through, only 20% of Bergen was left standing. That’s when the Hanseatic League came in to take over the business side of things.

d stockfish
This is a dried stockfish. I was told they keep forever, and to eat them, you just need to soak it in water for 24 hours. This is what the Hansa were trading.

 

e teapot
We took a tour of the Hanseatic Museum – this is one of the teapots.

 

f hansa buildings
This is a view across the harbor to the Hansa buildings. We were grabbing lunch and plotting out our afternoon. Note that the outdoor seating in Norwegian restaurants comes with blankets.


City Center

Bergen isn’t big, but we did leave the harbor for a bit to walk around the city center. There’s a nice pedestrian shopping district (I bought a sweater from Moods of Norway) and some lovely buildings from the 1800s-ish.

g grieg
A statue of Edward Grieg. He’s from Bergen and they’re very proud of him. If we’d had another day, we’d’ve gone to his house (it’s a museum now).

 

h gazebo
A gazebo in a park. I don’t remember much about it, except for the fact that I thought it was pretty.

 

i statue
This isn’t anyone in particular, just a violinist looking very intense. His intensity is mitigated by the tranquil sounds of the water.

 

j boulevard
Just beyond the previous statue, there’s a lovely boulevard leading to some governmental building. 

Old Town
Then it was time to head back. We went back through the old part of the town, exploring some of the twistier streets.

k husband daughter
My husband and daughter walking down one of the wider old twisty streets.

 

l manhole cover
My feet and shopping bag along with an interesting manhole cover.

 

m hansa buildings
More old Hansa buildings. Fun fact: because the Norwegians always built with wood, they had a fire problem. After a big fire, they’d dump all the burnt wood into the harbor and then build the new houses on the landfill. Then the landfill would settle. These might have been built straight, but they aren’t anymore.

 

n stag
Doesn’t every building need a golden stag head?

 

o alley
An alleyway between some of those buildings. Right angles, schmight angles.

 

p ladder
After you go down the alleyway, it opens up into a little courtyard full of cafes and giftshops. I imagine that ladder was important back in the day before this was the tourist section of town. Was that the front door?

 

q cafe
I didn’t manage to get any good photos of Rosenkrantz Tower or Hakonshall – the two big medieval buildings in Bergen. But they did have this lovely little minimalist cafe where I had a cup of tea and my daughter had a frozen snickers bar. (Ice cream is HUGE in Norway. HUGE. It felt a little like being back in Wisconsin – where I grew up – but with more ice cream shops.)

If you’re spending time in Scandinavia, I’d definitely recommend a day or two in Bergen if you can fit it in.

Antiquities in Copenhagen

We visited the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, an art museum founded by a Carlsberg of the brewing family, while we were in Copenhagen. I wanted to go because it has a famous bust of Pompey; it turned out that we showed up on free admission day. Yay! (We splurged and ate lunch at the museum, an always expensive proposition. It compensated for not paying admission.)

It’s got a good collection of antiquities. I’m always (of course) most interested in anything Ancient Rome, but there was also a handful of artwork from the 1800s. It’s a lovely museum, worth a few hours of your time.

Atrium

You enter the museum (after you buy your ticket) through a central atrium. It was a bright day in Copenhagen, this room was not air conditioned. (It’s clearly not normally that sunny; it was hot.)

gaia
The central statue in the atrium. It’s both impressive and disturbing. I can’t image that many babies needing my attention all at once.

 

hippo
I enjoy this little hippo statue hidden amongst the foliage. It’s cute.

 

Non-bust antiquities

There are a lot of heads on pillars (aka busts) in the Glyptotek. LOTS. These are a few antiquities that aren’t busts.

God of the Dead
I’m pretty sure this is Anubis – the Egyptian god of the dead. But don’t quote me on that.

 

hieroglyphics
Hieroglyphics that, I think, tell the story of an animal sacrifice. (I should really record what these photos are of when I take them.)

 

nerva
The Roman Emperor Nerva. He succeeded Domitian (who the Senate really, REALLY hated – he had a bad reputation for centuries) and was the first of the five Good Emperors.

 

Ancient Heads

busts
You turn the corner and look into this room and it’s, quite frankly, a little disturbing. I definitely did a double take.

 

pompey
Pompey the Great, sporting Alexander the Great’s hairstyle. (All the ancient generals wanted to be Alexander – to the point of copying the way he did his hair.) This one is famous.

 

augustus
Augustus, Ancient Rome’s very first emperor. He looks like an awkward, if determined, young man to me, here, with his ears sticking out.

 

Livia
Livia, Augustus’ wife. She was probably not as evil as Robert Graves’ I, Claudius wants you to think she was.

 

Septemius
Septemius Severus. He had a reputation of being a hard-ass, but he was also putting the empire back together after 100 years of mis-management. He needed to be a hard-ass.

Like I said earlier, there was also some art from the late 1800s, both French and Danish – lots of early Gaugin, actually – but this post is long enough as it is and the majority of the art in the Glyptotek is of the ancient variety. It’s a nice little collection.

 

A couple of days in Copenhagen

Introduction

We took a vacation! A big one, too. We spent a little more than two weeks in Scandinavia. I’d never been to Denmark, Norway, or Sweden before, and we managed to hit all three.*

I’m going to be spreading out the photos over the next couple of weeks in a series of posts, so stay tuned if there’s a particular destination/sight you’re interested in.

Today

We spent a total of about three days in Copenhagen, much of it just walking around the city. Urban hiking is the best.

Statues 

city hall balustrade
There are a row of these on the balustrade outside Copenhagen’s city hall. I have no idea what animal this is. Dragon? Elephant? Serpent? Some combo of the three? (FWIW, there are lions on the city’s coat of arms. This isn’t a lion.)

 

little mermaid
The Little Mermaid, possibly the most famous statue in Copenhagen. Everyone tells you that you’re going to be disappointed when you see it – it’s smaller than you think. Hans Christian Andersen is Danish, and they’re very proud of him.

 

random statue
A statue in a park not too far from The Little Mermaid. I’m not sure who it is or what it’s of, but I do enjoy how much random artwork there is on the streets in Europe.

 

WWII memorial
The World War II memorial. Possibly the unknown solider memorial?

Nyhaven

This is the bit of Copenhagen that’s on all the postcards. It’s like the Eiffel Tower in Paris: it’s the most touristy thing ever, but you have to go.

nyhaven boat
This boat has its own lighthouse. Nyhaven is a harbor (I *think* haven (Danish) = harbor (English); there are tons of boats. I also like the rust red of the boat with the dark blue of that house in the background.

 

nyhaven legos
Not the actual harbor. This was in the Copenhagen Lego store. (Remember kids, Lego is a Danish company.)

 

nyhaven reality
We saw this style of architecture – colorful row houses next to a harbor – all through Scandinavia. It’s what Scandinavian design used to mean before it was all clean lines and white and minimalist.

Buildings

christiansborg palace
It wouldn’t be a European city without a palace or two. This is the Christiansborg Palace; the Danish royal family uses the Amalieanborg Palace. This one has a lot of official government offices.

 

church and fountain
It also wouldn’t be a European city without a church or three. This was a lovely church near The Little Mermaid statue. I tried to get arty by putting the fountain in the foreground. I’m not sure it worked.

 

copenhagen jewish museum
We’ve covered palaces and churches…. Can I interest you in a museum? This one’s the Copenhagen Jewish Museum. We didn’t go in, I just liked the building.

 

opera house
This crooked photo (seriously self, learn to hold the camera level) is the new Copenhagen Opera House. It’s on the main canal/river through town. If you’re thinking it looks like a giant diving platform, well, you’re not the only one. Red Bull hosted a diving competition off the roof the weekend before we were there.

 

Tivoli Gardens
And this building is the entrance to the Tivoli Gardens amusement park, which includes the highest swing ride I have ever seen. To quote my husband, “That’s high enough to make you calculate the tensile strength of those cables.” Yes, I married an engineer.

Gardens and Flowers

I was surprised through the whole trip to see an amazing number of flowers. My kid (who lives in drought-riddled California) couldn’t get over how green everything was. It made me remember how much you enjoy nature when it’s cold and white and grey for winter.

Amalianborg Garden
This is the garden/park across the street from the Amalieanborg Palace. It’s also across the canal/river from the Opera House. It’s a lovely pale and there were lots of locals eating lunch on its benches and low walls.

 

flowers in copenhagen
This is on Hans Christian Andersen Blvd. Permanent flowerbeds on the streets. I also like that you can see the omni-present bike lanes. (We were taking a tour bus to the port for the next stage of our trip and an older American woman couldn’t stop exclaiming [loudly, sigh] over how many bikes there were in the city. “I could never live here, I can’t ride a bike!”)
park in copenhagen
I don’t remember which park this was, and I’ve no idea what that building is – but I’m pretty sure it’s offices or apartments or shops. Nothing remarkable. This one’s just pretty.

Random leftovers

These are a couple of photos that don’t really fit into categories, but I couldn’t bring myself to leave them out.

herring for breakfast
Herring for breakfast is a thing in Copenhagen. Fish is everywhere, as you might expect. (So are pickled vegetables and the food was more salted than I was used to.) An acquaintance of mine is married to a Danish man. She claims to enjoy the curry herring. I couldn’t work up my nerve to try it at 8am.

 

lamppost
This was the fanciest light pole I’d seen in awhile. It’s got a date on it from 1676, but the lights in it are fluorescent.

Did I mention that we did a lot of walking? And we only stayed in the center (largely). I’d’ve loved to explore more. Next time!

* I should tell you: I don’t enjoy the if-this-is-Tuesday-it-must-be-Belguim cramming in of sights and stops. I would have loved to spend way more time in each city/country. Nonetheless, we got a decent overview of each place. I think. Next time, in depth!